On the regular menu, grilled quail and frog's legs (when available) keep things interesting. Meat tacos dressed with dollops of first-rate guacamole and fiery salsa are Tex-Mex heaven. Also good are chicken enchiladas with spicy salsa verde--versions with sour cream or tomatoey red sauce pale in comparison. Tacos al carbon show up with nicely grilled strips of skirt steak in a house-made tortilla.

At brunch, when families descend in droves, chilaquiles--eggs scrambled with goodies ranging from tortilla chips to mesquite-grilled chicken--are a jumping way to start the day. Less fun are goopy, overly cheesy chiles rellenos, a dish rarely done right east of the Rio Grande, and leaden pork tamales. (Aside from the tamale and decent pit ribs, pork is nowhere to be found on this menu.) Portions are big, so consider sharing one of the combo plates or ordering items like tacos and enchiladas à la carte.